What’s Next?

29 Sep

I’m waiting for 3 important components, the motor to transmission adaptor plate, motor mount, and the controller.  The first two are being fabricated by Electro Automotive (www.electroauto.com), while the controller, a Raptor 1200,  will be shipped directry from the manufacturer, DC Power Systems (www.dcpowersystems.com).  Most of my other components  such as the DC motor, charger, DC to DC converter, etc., were purchased from KTA Services, Inc. (www.kta-ev.com) and are ready for installation.   I really enjoy working with Ken of KTA Services and Shari of Electro Automotive.  They truly are assets to the industry.

I really don’t mind the delay, because there are lots of things to do as far as getting the car ready.  This car is more than 30 years old, and the restoration part of the project has its own unique challenges.  Next step is to “rustproof” the car.  I discovered surface rust in the center tunnel area, the pedal cluster, and behind the dash. 

This spells W-O-R-K: 

Perhaps the hardest step in this project is the fabrication of the battery racks and the (optional) boxes.  This will be tackled later, after the rustproofing phase.   In the meantime, I made some battery mock-ups using styrofoam held together by toothpicks and masking tape.  Here’s a picture of the mock-ups sitting in the spare tire well:

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5 Responses to “What’s Next?”

  1. slacy October 12, 2006 at 11:33 pm #

    Have you thought about where you’re going to route your main battery pack wires? I removed the side skirts from my car tonight to see if there was space in there to run some wires. There isn’t really. Do you have your circuit breaker? Can you mount it? Do you need to fabricate a plate or something? Lots of things to do, you just have to dive into some of the details. 😉

  2. electric914 October 13, 2006 at 10:58 am #

    I was thinking of going through the driver side heater hose, the one that runs from the heat exchanger to the front hood. I ran a CAT-5 cable to test for snags, it went through smoothly. Can’t use the 2/0 to test now, I’ve got a 50-ft length nicely coiled, and don’t want to do any heavy lifting if I don’t have to. I might use both sides if I can’t get two 2/0 through the drivers side hose.

    Haven’t finalized plans for the circuit breaker yet. My speakers are torn, so I’ll probably just take them out (and the radio as well) and fit the circuit breaker in the driver side area, “breaking” the main cable as it enters the heater hole. Another alternative is somewhere in the rear where it can be tripped using the heater cable. Mine has a nice red handle on the center console. Got to first find a dry and easily accessible location, very difficult without the battery rack designed yet.

  3. slacy October 13, 2006 at 5:43 pm #

    Yeah, I thought about doing one cable on each side, but then got really nervous about EM interference. Do you think the cables can be routed down the center where the original wiring harness is? I’m going to have to look at the Electro Auto instructions when I get home to see where they run their pack wires. I’m a little concerned about running them through an active heating duct, but I’m sure the wires do have a high temperature rating…

  4. electric914 October 14, 2006 at 12:09 am #

    These ducts used to carry heat from the heat exchanger to the front blower. With no more ICE and a different approach to heating the cabin, heat won’t be an issue. Will EM interference affect things other than the radio? I’ve pretty much given up on having a radio in this car.

  5. electric vehicle conversion December 27, 2011 at 4:04 pm #

    Hey, I am inspired to read all your conversations on electric conversions. Why not let me have a trial on my old Toyato which is lying idle. Thanks for your all discussions which infact gave me lot of ideas how to proceed. But will get back you once my electric car conversion is done 🙂

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